From the Delta to the desert

The cantina at Bubba Diego's features more than 65 tequilas and more than 30 rums. Photo by Lori Fusaro

Crossroads BBQ/Bubba Diego’s

“In the delta of the Mississippi River, where Robert Johnson was born, they said that if an aspiring bluesman waited by the side of a deserted country crossroads in the dark of a moonless night, then Satan himself might come and tune his guitar, sealing a pact for the bluesman’s soul and guaranteeing a lifetime of easy money, women and fame. They said that Robert Johnson must have waited by the crossroads and gotten his guitar fine-tuned.” (Excerpt from Hammer of the Gods by Stephen Davis.)

That story summarizes what Crossroads BBQ is all about – selling your soul for really good barbecue. Last Monday, an exciting new restaurant opened its doors. And barbecue connoisseurs may want to consider commemorating the day as a national holiday.

The meats at Crossroads BBQ are high quality, organic and sustainably raised whenever possible, and are smoked on the premises. Chef Richard Petty’s ribs – pork and beef – are mouthwatering and soul-worthy. Other entrees include slow-cooked pulled pork, tri-tip and more.

My server, Cara Kennington, was very knowledgeable about the food and beverages she brought to the table, but failed to warn me that the beer-battered onion rings are highly addictive. The fries resemble a plate of fresh potato chips served with truffle oil and bleu cheese.

The salads are not merely piles of lettuce with a few token veggies. Rather, they are hearty and substantial, and could substitute for a meal (if the meats and sweets weren’t so amazing). As for sweets, the bread pudding with caramel sauce and a scoop of vanilla ice cream is a glimpse of heaven.

General Manager Chris Kulow (formerly of Beverly Hills’ Crustacean) has artfully assembled a wine list that keeps with the tradition of hand-crafted, artisanal menu items. Many of the wines are from smaller vintners in California, Oregon and Washington, as well as South America. For beer drinkers, there are more than 50 beers by the bottle and 15 on tap (including root beer). There is even farm-to-table lemonade – including a hand-pressed watermelon lemonade.

Cocktails are handmade by talented mixologists, who are friendly, professional and unimposing.The bar has a hip vibe and a good amount of energy without being loud. High-def TVs light up the background without stealing the scene. Sports may be playing, but this isn’t a sports bar; this is a bar for people who like good company and great liquor. Even the well is premium at Crossroads (for instance, the house vodka is Tito’s, as opposed to, say, Kamchatka or Popov). A variety of exotic signature drinks are available for the bold. If you like slightly sweet whisky cocktails, I recommend the Crossroads Smoker, which features Drambuie and exotic fruits). There is also a variety of old scotches and other fine liquors for the sophisticated palate.

As you savor the flavors of Crossroads, you may notice the themes that pop off the walls – blues-inspired artwork featuring Robert Johnson and signage that speak to the devilish choices in life.

So, there it is: a full gastronomical experience that will leave any appetite satisfied. But that is only half the story. On the other side of the wall is an entirely different world – an authentic Mexican cantina with a vibe that is as distant as New Orleans is from Jalisco. Bubba Diego’s is the other half of a unique design that features two restaurants in one space.

Enter the cantina and you’ll notice the brick floors, the blue ceiling, the reclaimed wood, the blooming cacti, the stained glass, liquid tones and bamboo fans. The art is spiritual and the atmosphere is tangibly oceanic – it begs for tequila. And if tequila is your thing, you’re in luck; there are more than 65 from which to choose. Alternatively, there are more than 30 rums available and a wide variety of cocktails based on those liquors. Grab a seat at the bar or, for a truly unique experience, have your drink on the indoor patio, with its cobblestone floor, woven chairs, fountain and yucca timber ceiling.

The cuisine is true to Mexican techniques but Americanized just enough to make it familiar – it’s not too spicy (but for the adventurous, they will bring the heat). The seafood is fresh and local, as are the vegetables. Handmade tacos are a house specialty, and crispy tacos are another favorite.

The restaurant features its own pastry chef, who creates homemade breads and pastries. And a ceviche bar is in the works.

So, it’s time to make a choice – Crossroads or Bubba Diego’s, right? Wrong. The two-sided menu allows patrons to order from either restaurant! That goes for cocktails as well. In other words, you get the best of both worlds.

Take-out is available and catering is on the way.

The restaurant is located at 2927 S. Sepulveda Blvd., Los Angeles – the former home of Hamburger Hamlet. There is ample parking in back. For more information, find them on Facebook or call (424) 832-7300.