The common train of thought is that fast food Chinese food is pretty much standard fare. When you’re walking in and selecting from pre-prepared dishes, usually in the form of a multi-item combo, then the consensus appears to be that there’s little room for creative sparkle. It’s going to be some version of Panda Express-esque items, and that makes for handy Chinese food when you’re in a pinch. It’s just very ok. Not so.
Located on the Culver City side of Venice Boulevard, precisely on the boundary separating it from Los Angeles, Chinatown Express is in a prime location surrounded by eateries and stores. There’s nothing about to suggest the extraordinary, until one tastes the food itself.
There can be no claim that this is authentic, traditional Chinese fare. If that’s what you want, make your way to Chinatown, where you’ll find the best Chinese food in Southern California. That said, there’s absolutely a time and a place for Americanized, fast-food Chinese take-out. Sometimes, nothing hits the spot like greasy, breaded chicken is sweet & sour or General Tso’s sauces. And while they might not be authentic, those dishes have interesting stories of their own–tales of multiculture and fusion.
It’s always good to get the combos at fast-food Chinese restaurants like Chinatown Express, and it’s always good to get a mix of the noodles and the rice as a base, in order to try both. Here, the fried rice is delicious; full of flavor, as well as nice chunks of egg and vegetables. The mildly salty, rich stock that’s cooked in makes for a greater grain. Similarly, the noodles would taste wonderful alone before adding any sauces from the main dishes. Not too chewy, not too soft, these noodles are cooked extremely well.
We also tried the Wonton Soup, which is hot and tasty. The filled wontons are swimming in a delicious, comforting broth and the soup makes for an ideal starter.
The shrimp with walnuts is incredible here; sweet and crispy, the shrimp are plump and juicy, the walnuts adding a glorious earthy, nutty flavor that pairs beautifully with the sweet sauce. It all works together so perfectly well.
Meanwhile, the beef and broccoli is equally magnificent. The rich gravy and the vegetable, blessed with the right level of crunch, sits nicely with the flavorful red meat.
That said, we’d advise you to get a combo and try as many things as possible. It’s all good.
Chinatown Express is located at 10350 Venice Blvd., Culver City 90232. Contact 310-280-0818.

