Lonzo’s Restaurant lets the Tiger’s Milk flow

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(Photo by Brett Callwood)

Lonzo’s Restaurant is one of the best Peruvian eateries in all of Southern California. It may well be THE best, although they may at least be partially subjective. 

Lonzo’s was opened by owner Jose Ramirez 14 years ago, initially as a family-run bakery and later expanding into a full restaurant.

“After years of hard work, the little bakery became Lonzo’s Restaurant, named after his son,” the online biography reads. “His soulmates’ heritage and childhood memories inspired Lonzo’s essence to offer the most representative plates of the Peruvian food. Since then, they have worked together to provide the most traditional and innovative recipes to our customers. By this, they have obtained recognition in our community, the restaurant industry, and the media as one of the best Peruvian restaurants in Culver City, Los Angeles. Jose and Miriam have a philosophy of giving back. And they enjoy sharing special dates with the most vulnerable people of our community and saying thank you for all the support and affection they have received through these years. So, If you are looking for a cozy and family homemade taste and have not tried us yet, we invite you to cross us out from your must-visit restaurants’ list.”

Everything on the menu looks spectacular. Enticing, even. But we had to choose so we went for the Leche de Tigre, or Tiger’s Milk Cocktail. That dish contains shrimp, kampachi, tiger’s milk, choclo, cancha, yuyo, and fried calamari.

Based on a quick online search, Leche de Tigre is “a zesty, citrus-based marinade from Peru used for ceviche, made with lime juice, fish juices, onions, chili, and cilantro, believed to be a hangover cure.”

Let’s put the “hangover cure” part to one side, for use at a more appropriate time (although, to be fair, it’s good to know). More importantly, it’s a mind-blowing flavor. Some might find it too sour, and it certainly is an acquired taste. The lime is prominent, to say the least. 

But, once you’re used to it, it becomes quite addictive. The shrimp and kampachi fish are enhanced massively by the tart lime and the bite of the chili, plus the sweetness of the red onion. The chewy corn adds another welcome texture, and the whole thing comes together beautifully. Little wonder it’s referred to as a cocktail.

It’s served with some perfectly fried calamari, and the lime cuts through the grease of the breading quite beautifully. It all just works.

Lonzo’s Restaurant is located at 10804 Washington Blvd., Culver City 90232. Call 310-842-7876 or visit lonzosrestaurant.com.