The main attraction of Santa Monica’s Main Street is its eclectic, beachcomber vibe that attracts both tourists and the upscale, eco-conscious locals. M Street Kitchen, at the corner of Main and Bicknell Avenue, provides a perfect blend for the two crowds, serving traditional dishes that don’t scare away out-of-towners, along with a Santa Monica Farmer’s Market twist that attracts the neighbors.
Although executive chef Erik Palmer has only been in Los Angeles two years, via Chicago and Las Vegas, he has already adapted to California cuisine by making the most of farmer’s market fare – organic fruits and veggies and fresh fish. The featured items at the indoor/outdoor café reflect some of the signature dishes people have come to associate with California cuisine, but a few hearty comfort foods that one might associate with a country diner are also thrown into the mix. So it doesn’t matter if you’re coming in for a light dinner away from the kids or a hearty meal after a day of surfing, you’ll find something that will satisfy.
Palmer says that his dishes are all about quality first and clean presentation on the plate. The grill is fired by white oak – one of the finest woods for cooking – which gives a smoky taste to the dishes. Multiple continents are represented in his menu, with influences particularly from South America, the Far East and the American South.
Appetizers include such varied choices as pulled chicken nachitos and sushi. The tuna poke was fresh and flavorful and a worthy start to a great meal. One of the popular salads is the evil Thai princess salad, which bursts with a host of complimentary flavors. Highly recommended is the Brussels sprout salad, in which the salad leaves are made from the sprouts that have been blanched with sugar and salt water, topped with bagel croutons, almonds, blueberries and manchego cheese, which all blends into a salty/sweet combination. You don’t even need to like Brussels sprouts to enjoy this magnificent montage of flavors.
The entrées are varied and include casual fare such as burgers and tacos, as well as more formal plates including steak, ribs and salmon. The poblano chili burger is a must for burger lovers. The mildly hot chili is more spice than scorch and adds a south-of-the-border element to the meat and pairs well with the grated sharp cheddar. The coleslaw side is handmade to order, rather than slop dug out of a bucket. The fries are skinny and plentiful. On the lighter side, the big eye ahi tuna is seared and sliced on a bed of coconut curry rice and neither is too spicy or too sweet.
Dessert comes as fresh as the main menu by way of M Street’s bakery that dwells next to the main restaurant. It offers rich endings to any meal, like the campfire brownie, reminiscent of gooey s’mores and ice cream-topped cookies. The carrot cake is especially moist with an airy cream cheese frosting that hails from the owner’s wife’s secret family recipe (despite much pleading and a couple of bribes).
M Street Kitchen is also a popular spot for breakfast and lunch (free Wi-Fi is available) and is especially renowned for its English muffins.
The restaurant, the former home of Le Boulangerie and most recently, La Grande Orange, features high ceilings and good lighting, and open kitchen, exposed brick, white wood paneling and wines on display.
You’ll find organic house-blend coffees, teas and a variety of lattes and espresso drinks. The wine list features primarily California and Oregon wines, including a selection of Santa Barbara wines, house-made red and white Sangria, and an assortment of signature cocktails and beers.
Although there’s seating for about 120 people inside and another 60 on the patio, reservations are strongly recommended. Valet parking is available.
For more information on M Street Kitchen, visit mstreetkitchen.com or call (310) 396-9145.
Scott Bridges is a member of the Southern California Restaurant Writers, southerncaliforniarestaurantwriters.org.
