El Abajeno knows Nachos

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It’s all too easy for those of us not from Mexico to think of “Mexican food” as a monolith, to throw a blanket over the whole country and assume that there’s just one type of food associated with this huge, diverse and culturally rich nation. Of course, that’s not true.

“Here at El Abajeno, you’ll experience delicious homemade Mexican cuisine from El Grullo Jalisco,” they say on their website. “Try our mouth-watering dishes, carefully prepared with fresh ingredients. At El Abajeno, our recipe for success is simple – great food and care makes customers return every time.”

The key detail there is in the geography. El Abajeno serves food from El Grullo, which is a town in Jalisco, central-western Mexico. Stew-like dishes on the menu such as cocido and pozole are tempting, and the smells coming out of the kitchen were tantalizing when we went in on a Sunday afternoon. 

The place was buzzing with a steady flow of customers, food and drink, the rapid chatter in the background like a soothing soundtrack. Everything about El Abajeno was welcoming, from the staff to the decor.

With all of that said, we opted for the chicken nachos. Not the most adventurous dish on the surface, but sometimes you just have a hankering, and that was what our bellies were crying out for: a big old plate of nachos with chicken, beans, sour cream, jalapeños, cheese and sauce.

That list of ingredients does simply things a bit too much though. It’s kind of reductive, because the balance of everything is just about perfect.

The nachos themselves are quite incredible. Crisp and full of flavor, not too greasy and with a wonderfully earthy tone, they both work alone as a chip and they hold the ingredients of this dish together with admirable resilience. 

But of course, we need to dig deep on the ingredients. A generous portion of refried beans serves as a protein base, and the cheese that is melted all over them adds a rich, sharp flavor. The jalapeños add much needed pizazz. The juice from the peppers permeates everything, which is great because there’s a slight bite that brings the dish to life.

The star is the chicken, which is shredded but still in large chunks on the top. It’s juicy and tender, and full of meaty flavor. It’s seasoned beautifully and, with the final addition of the sauce and a cooling sour cream, it’s all tied together with aplomb.

El Abajeno is located at 4513 Inglewood Blvd., Culver City 90230. Contact 310-390-0755 or visit abajeno.net.