Comida Vegana gets the queso right

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(Photo by Brett Callwood)

Last week we visited Culver City Cuisine, the rent-a-kitchen, one-stop location for curbside pickup of a whole range of eateries, for the first time in months and were able to sample a whole range of the restaurants under their roof. This week, we continue that culinary journey.

All is as it was; you miss out when it comes to a warm interior, helpful staff and that sort of thing. But every yin has its yang, and in this case it comes down to the fact that a multitude of incredible eateries are all under one roof. You can walk in, wander up to the easy-peasy monitor, and order a bunch of different meals all at the same time. If you want Mexican food, your partner wants salad, and your child wants a burger–no problem! A world of dining is at your fingertips.

There’s really nothing we can tell you about the exterior and interior decor, or the service. The exterior is really a window in an alley – you show up after ordering online, give your name/order number and collect your food. That’s the same for all of the businesses utilizing Culver City Cuisine. There’s one person taking your name and handing out your food, and that person was friendly enough. Job done!

This week, we’re taking a long, hard look at Comida Vegana, a Mexican restaurant where all of the ingredients – the “meat,” cheese and everything else – is plant-based. 

We opted for the Three Street Taco Plate. There’s a choice of protein and we went for the vegan chorizo rather than Impossible meat, Beyond meat, or the decidedly un-protein cauliflower, Mushroom or guacamole. 

The tacos also came with cheese, onion, cilantro, and green mild salsa. It’s very easy to get tacos wrong. The ratio of protein to veg to (if any) cheese has to be just right. It has to be firm but juicy. The spice level is the toughest thing, because it’s so subjective. And on top of all that, the good people at Comida Vegana have to replicate it all with vegan ingredients.

That’s what makes the achievement so impressive. The tacos are superb. Every bite uncovers new layers. The vegan chorizo is spicy and succulent, and not at all bland. The salad veg is crisp and vibrant and, typically for Mexican food, the cilantro is key.

Most impressive is their cheese, an area where a lot of vegan joints fall down. Plant-based cheese can be awful, but here it adds smoky flavor to the dish. Even the chips and queso, which we got as a side, is great. We’ll be returning.

Comida Vegana is located at 5660 Selmaraine Dr., Culver City. Visit culvercitycuisine.com.