Where the turf meets the surf

The ambience at BOA is perfect for dinner or cocktails. Photo by Gina Hall.

By Scott Bridges

A great steak is a work of art. And nowhere is that art so boldly on display than at BOA in Santa Monica. So committed is the restaurant to the perfection of beef that it is served on its own plate with only a rosemary-adorned clove of garlic to garnish it. Side dishesare exactly that – side dishes.

The signature steak here is the 40-day dry-aged New York strip. It is simply the best New York I have ever tasted. After choosing a cut, patrons may choose to have the meat prepared with a choice of dry rubs or side sauces. I chose the tri-peppercorn rub on a char-rare steak. Paired with a full-bodied Santa Barbara Syrah, the flavors of each sang out like a choir of angels.

Also worthy of attention, however, is the petite filet mignon, which my date chose. She ordered the steak medium with the cabernet sauce. One bite and she was reminded why she only dabbles in vegetarianism. This cut of meat is so tender that it could practically be cut with a butter knife. And with a touch of the cabernet sauce, it is perfection for any palate.

The menu includes other temptations, including USDA organic New York strip, ostrich steak and free range veal, among other irresistible choices.

BOA features a wine showcase in the center of the restaurant. The list includes a nice blend of New and Old World wines by the glass, and an exhaustive list of fine bottles. There are plenty of beers on tap and in the bottle for the steak-and-a-beer aficionado.

As a side to my New York strip, I was uncertain what to try. My waiter, Walter, recommended the crab and truffle gnocchi. He could not have been more right. The gnocchi was so rich, creamy and decadent that I had to restrain myself from licking the dish clean.

My date had the steamed vegetables with lemon and basil, which, if you like steamed vegetables with lemon and basil, you won’t be disappointed.

Finally, for dessert we took home a piece of the Verona torte – a light, airy torte with blueberries and cream. If you can avoid taking this home in a doggy bag, do so; it is likely to melt, and while still tasty, the texture is a large part of what makes this dish so incredibly delicious. Stay a while longer, have a glass of Cognac or an espresso, and enjoy each bite as the sun sets over Santa Monica Bay. You won’t regret it.

BOA is located at 101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica. For more information, including reservations and operating hours, call (310) 899-4466 or go to boasteak.com/balboa.